Executive Summary: Nirmal “Nims” Purja MBE (known as Nims Dai) was a Nepalese-born British mountaineer celebrated for his record-breaking ascents. He served 6 years in the Gurkha Regiment and 10 years in the UK Special Boat Service before leaving the military in 2018 to pursue high-altitude climbing. Purja made history by summiting all 14 of the world’s 8,000‑metre peaks in just 6 months and 6 days in 2019, a feat documented in the Netflix film 14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible. He also led the first winter ascent of K2 in January 2021. He accumulated dozens of 8,000m summits (over 57 by mid‑2026), many without supplemental oxygen, and holds numerous speed and “first” records. Tragically, Nimsdai died at age 43 in an avalanche on Broad Peak, Pakistan, on 30 July 2026. His legacy includes world records in mountaineering, charitable work (e.g. Everest porter shelters), media appearances, and controversies including publicized sexual harassment allegations in 2024. This report provides a comprehensive, chronological account of his life, career, achievements, and affiliations, with an internal timeline, expedition comparisons, key events, FAQs, and suggested images for context.
Table of Contents
Early Life and Background
Nirmal Purja was born 25 July 1983 in a small village in Nepal’s Myagdi District, Gandaki Province (near the Dhaulagiri region). He grew up in a poor Gurkha family in Chitwan District; his father was a Gurkha soldier and his mother came from a farming background. As a child he attended an English-speaking boarding school (where he trained in kickboxing) and later earned a postgraduate diploma in security management from Loughborough University in England.
Purja described his upbringing: “We came from a really poor family… I remember I didn’t even have flip-flops”. His three older brothers also became Gurkha soldiers and helped fund his education.
Military Service
In 2003 (at age 18) Purja followed his family tradition by joining the British Army’s Brigade of Gurkhas. He excelled in training and, in 2009, became the first-ever Gurkha to be accepted into the UK Special Boat Service (SBS), an elite Royal Navy special forces unit. In the SBS he specialized in cold-weather and mountain warfare. He served in conflict zones around the world, at one point surviving a sniper shot (which struck his rifle).
By 2018 Purja had risen to the rank of Lance Corporal but left the SBS and declined an offer to join the SAS, opting instead to pursue full-time mountaineering. This meant giving up his army pension to chase what he described as an “impossible” dream.
Climbing Career (2012–2026)
Purja’s interest in climbing began while on leave in 2012, when he trekked to Everest Base Camp. He summited Lobuche East (6,119 m) with a guide in late 2012 – his first mountain peak. While still in the military, he continued climbing whenever possible. By 2014 he made his first 8,000m summit: Dhaulagiri (8,167 m) in Nepal during a short expedition. His second 8,000er was Everest on 13 May 2016.
He quickly repeated Everest several times. In 2017 Purja led the “Gurkha Expedition 200E” to Everest, successfully summiting with 13 Gurkha soldiers to mark 200 years of Gurkha service. By 2022 he had climbed Everest six times.
Project Possible – 14 Peaks in 189 Days (2019)
Purja’s most famous feat was Project Possible in 2019: to climb all 14 of the world’s 8,000m peaks in one season. Traditionally the 14 summits had taken years or decades to complete; Purja aimed to do it in 7 months. Commencing in April 2019 from Annapurna and finishing on Shishapangma in October 2019, he and his Nepalese Sherpa team achieved all 14 in 189 days (6 months 6 days), smashing the previous ~7-year record. After summiting Shishapangma on 29 Oct 2019, he triumphantly radioed “Mission achieved!”. His final push included an unprecedented triple-header: summiting Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu within 48 hours (May 2019).
This accomplishment drew global media attention. The Guardian praised him as “one of the most successful climbers at the highest altitudes” and noted his record-breaking 14-peaks speed. By the end of 2019 he held the Guinness World Record for this feat.
Post-2019 Expeditions and Records
After leaving the army in 2018, Purja founded the guiding companies Elite Exped and Skydive Nimsdai. He continued an intense climbing schedule:
- First Winter Ascent of K2 (Jan 2021): Nimsdai joined a 10-member all-Nepalese team that made history on 16 Jan 2021 by summiting K2 (8,611 m) – the second-highest mountain – in winter for the first time ever. He and Mingma Gyalje Sherpa co-led this expedition. They reached the summit during a rare weather window and sang Nepal’s national anthem on top. This achievement was hailed as a “huge feat for the Nepalese climbing community”.
- Everest/Lhotse Records (2022): In May 2022 Purja set multiple speed records: he summited Everest and Lhotse (8,516 m) in just 25 days without supplemental oxygen. In May 2022 he also became the first to cross from Everest’s South Col to Lhotse’s summit twice in one season. Later, on 22 July 2022, he climbed K2 (Pakistan) without bottled oxygen, further cementing his reputation.
- Hat-Trick Challenge (2025–2026): Starting in 2025, Purja embarked on the “Hat-Trick” challenge – an ongoing effort to climb each of the 14 highest peaks three times, as well as the Seven Summits (the highest peak on each continent) three times. He completed his first Three-peat of the Seven Summits (all seven continental peaks) on 21 October 2024, making him the only person ever to have done both the Seven Summits and all 14 eight-thousanders, with and without supplemental oxygen. In early 2026 he continued climbing, summiting Gasherbrum II (8,035 m) on 21 July 2026 without oxygen – his 57th 8,000m summit – just days before the fatal Broad Peak avalanche.
Major Achievements and Honors
Purja’s feats have yielded numerous world records and honors. Some key highlights:
- 14 Peaks Speed Record (2019): Fastest ascent of all fourteen 8,000m mountains (in 189 days), nearly 7 years faster than the prior record.
- Triple-Header (2019): Fastest to climb Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu consecutively (48 hours).
- Mountain-Speed Records (2022–2024): Fastest to summit Everest+Lhotse without oxygen (25 days), first to cross South Col to Lhotse twice in one season (2022); fastest to summit all 14 peaks without supplemental oxygen in 2 years 4 months (Apr 2022–Oct 2024).
- Firsts: First Gurkha SBS member; leader of the first all-Nepalese winter ascent of K2.
- Summit Counts: Over 57 successful ascents of 8,000m peaks (as of Jul 2026), including over 28 without oxygen.
- Honors: Appointed Member of the Order of the British Empire (MBE) in 2018 for high-altitude mountaineering (notably a 2016 rescue and 2017 summits). Awarded an honorary doctorate by Loughborough University in 2023.
He also received accolades in Nepal: for example, the Nepal Press Council in 2025 praised him in its ruling (see Controversies).
Controversies and Disputes
Purja’s career also included disputes and controversies:
- Harassment Allegations (2024–2025): In May 2024 The New York Times reported accusations by two women—Finnish climber Lotta Hintsa and American doctor April Leonardo—that Purja sexually harassed or assaulted them during expeditions (Kathmandu, Mar 2023; K2, Jun 2022). Purja vehemently denied these “false” allegations. The story prompted industry debate; some sponsors cut ties (e.g. Osprey) while others advocated due process. In Feb 2025 a podcast (“Summit Justice”) revisited the case from multiple angles. As of August 2026 there has been no public legal conclusion.
- Media/Press Dispute (2025): In early 2025 the Nepal Press Council ruled that articles in The Himalayan Times about Purja and his companies were “unbalanced” and “possibly defamatory”, blacklisting the newspaper from government ads. This came after Purja’s organizations complained of negative coverage in 2024. The Himalayan Times contested the decision. (Purja later reclaimed the business press narrative through his newsletter.)
- Climbing Ethics: Purja’s use of supplemental oxygen for his 2019 record was controversial to some purists. He defended it as necessary for safety: “I have to get back down so I can reach the next mountain… You can always go again without oxygen if you’re alive”.
These issues are noted here for completeness; Purja’s public persona combined ambition with outspoken confidence, which sometimes sparked debate.
Affiliations and Media
Purja founded Elite Exped (high-altitude guiding) and Skydive Nimsdai (parachuting), through which he led commercial expeditions to Everest and other peaks. He became a prominent public figure: a 2021 Netflix documentary (14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible) chronicled his 2019 Project Possible, introducing him to global audiences. He and his wife Suchi often appeared in press; notable events included the Doc NYC film festival premiere in Nov 2021. In 2020 he published an autobiography, Beyond Possible, recounting his journey.
He collaborated with environmental and philanthropic projects, such as building porter shelters on Everest to aid Sherpas and porters. At the time of his death he was actively planning Everest expeditions for the 2026 season, leveraging his reputation for efficiency (including introducing a “fast-track” guiding approach).
Death and Current Status
On 30 July 2026, while leading an Elite Exped team on Broad Peak (Pakistan, 8,051 m), Purja was caught in a devastating avalanche. He and nine others were swept away. Pakistani rescue teams later recovered multiple bodies. Elite Exped confirmed on 1 August 2026: “Nirmal ‘Nimsdai’ Purja tragically lost his life following the avalanche on Broad Peak”. He was 43 years old. The news shocked the mountaineering community and Nepal’s government. As of this report, Purja’s death stands confirmed, and he is mourned as one of the most accomplished climbers of his generation. His record legacy and foundations continue in his name.
Chronological Timeline (Mermaid Chart)
timeline
title Nims Dai – Key Life Events
1983-07-25: Born in Dana village, Myagdi District, Nepal
2003: Joined British Army, Gurkha Regiment
2009: Selected for UK Special Boat Service (first Gurkha in SBS)
2012: First mountain climb (Lobuche East, Nepal)
2014-05: First 8,000m summit (Dhaulagiri, Nepal)
2016-05: Summited Everest (8,848m) – second 8,000er
2017-05: Led all-Gurkha Everest expedition (G200E)
2018: Resigned SBS (Lance Corporal) to climb full-time
2019-04: Launched "Project Possible", summiting Annapurna (first 8,000m)
2019-10-29: Completed all 14 8,000m peaks in 189 days (Project Possible)
2021-01-16: Co-led first winter ascent of K2 with all-Nepal team
2022-05: Set fastest Everest+Lhotse no-O2 (25 days)
2024-10-04: Completed all 14 peaks *without* supplemental oxygen (world record)
2024-10-21: Completed Seven Summits (highest peaks on 7 continents)
2026-07-30: Died in Broad Peak avalanche, PakistanMajor Expeditions (Comparison)
| Dates | Mountains / Expedition | Route / Notes | Outcome | Team |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Apr–Oct 2019 | Project Possible (14×8,000m) | Summited all 14 eight-thousanders (Nepal, Pakistan, Tibet) over 189 days | Success (world record) | Nims Purja’s team with Sherpa support |
| 16 Jan 2021 | K2 (8,611m, Pakistan)** | South Ridge (Abruzzi Spur), first winter ascent | Success (historic) | 10-climber all-Nepalese team including Purja |
| May 2022 | Everest (8,848m) & Lhotse (8,516m) | South Col route; no supplemental oxygen; back-to-back in 48h | Success (fastest double) | Purja plus Nepali sherpas (solo-led pushes) |
| Apr 2022–Oct 2024 | 14×8,000m (No O₂) Challenge | Summited remaining 8000ers without O₂ over 2y 5m | Success (record for no-O₂) | Purja with guides (notably Mingma Gyalje Sherpa) |
| Oct 21, 2024 | Seven Summits (World) | Summit of Carstensz Pyramid, Indonesia (final peak) | Success – only person to do both 7 Summits & 14×8k | Purja guiding team |
Legend: Bold highlights major expedition milestones. Routes are often standard high-altitude climbing paths. All listed outcomes were achieved successfully, often as world-firsts or records.
Awards and Recognition
- MBE (Member of the Order of the British Empire), 2018 – awarded by Queen Elizabeth II for “outstanding achievement in extreme high-altitude mountaineering” (for a 2016 rescue and 2017 climbs).
- Honorary Doctorate, Loughborough University, 2023 – for his military and mountaineering accomplishments.
- Multiple Guinness Records – e.g. fastest 14 peaks (2019), fastest 14 no-O2 (2024).
- Nepalese honors: he became a Non-Resident Nepali (NRN) citizen in 2023, and Nepal’s Prime Minister publicly praised his achievements.
Media and Publications
- Netflix Documentary: 14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible (2021) – chronicling his 2019 ascents, which raised his international profile.
- Film Festival: The documentary premiered at DOC NYC in Nov 2021 and won acclaim.
- Book: Beyond Possible (2020) – Purja’s autobiography.
- Appearances: He has given talks and interviews globally, and featured on climbing and adventure platforms (e.g. Outside, BBC), discussing his exploits. He also appeared in Nimsdai Foundation videos about rescue missions and cleanups.
Controversies and Disputes
- Sexual Harassment Allegations (2024): Two women (climber Lotta Hintsa and physician April Leonardo) publicly accused Purja of harassment and assault during expeditions. These appeared in a New York Times exposé on 31 May 2024. Purja denied the allegations via legal statement and social media, calling them “false and defamatory”. The climbing community debated the issue; some sponsors severed ties, others awaited investigations. A 2025 podcast (“Summit Justice”) further examined the case from multiple perspectives. (No legal charges have been reported by August 2026.)
- Nepal Press Council Ruling (2025): In March 2025 Nepal’s Press Council blacklisted The Himalayan Times and halted government ads after finding its articles on Purja and his companies “unbalanced” and defamatory. Purja had complained about multiple critical stories in 2024. The Himalayan Times appealed, calling the ruling unconstitutional.
- Climbing Ethics Debate: Purja faced criticism for using bottled oxygen in his “Project Possible” and other climbs. He responded that safety and speed were paramount: “You can always go again without oxygen… but you can’t if you’re dead”. His emphasis on speed and guiding commercial clients also invited debate among traditional alpinists.
These controversies did not diminish his achievements but are part of his complex public image.
Current Status and Legacy
As of August 2026, Nirmal “Nims Dai” Purja is deceased. His final expedition remains on Broad Peak, Pakistan. His death was confirmed by official sources. Tributes poured in from around the world. His legacy is preserved by the records he set, the documentary and book he left behind, and the institutions he inspired. Purja’s approach – a mix of military discipline, teamwork with Sherpas, and a fearless mindset – continues to influence high-altitude climbing culture. Plans by Elite Exped and his foundation aim to honor his memory by supporting mountain communities and safety initiatives.
FAQ:
- Who was Nims Dai (Nirmal Purja)?
Nirmal “Nims” Purja MBE, nicknamed “Nims Dai” (“Big Brother Nims” in Nepali), was a Nepal-born climber and former British Army Special Forces operative. He became famous for his mountaineering records: most notably summiting all 14 of the world’s 8,000m peaks in 6 months and 6 days in 2019. - What major records did he set?
Among his records: fastest completion of all 14 eight-thousanders (189 days in 2019); fastest Everest/Lhotse ascent (25 days in 2022); first winter ascent of K2 (Jan 2021, with an all-Nepali team); fastest completion of all 14 peaks without oxygen (2 years 4 months, up to Oct 2024). - Was Nims Dai involved in any controversies?
Yes. In 2024 two women accused him of sexual harassment during expeditions (reported in NYT), which he denied as false. He also clashed with media: Nepal’s Press Council in 2025 censured a newspaper for its coverage of him. He faced debate over his use of oxygen and guiding style, but these did not overshadow his climbing feats. - What media features has he had?
Purja was the subject of the Netflix film 14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible (2021), documenting his 2019 ascents. He published a memoir Beyond Possible (2020). He has been profiled in major outlets like The Guardian, Outside, and BBC, and has appeared in interviews and speaking events worldwide. - What is his final status?
Nims Dai died on 30 July 2026 in a Broad Peak avalanche. His death was confirmed by his expedition company. He left behind a family (wife Suchi and a child), foundations in Nepal, and a record book of achievements. Tributes noted that “the history of their courage…will always remain inspiring”.
Timeline of Key Events (summary): Nirmal Purja was born in 1983 in Nepal; joined the British Gurkhas in 2003; joined UK Special Boat Service in 2009; first climbed Lobuche East in 2012; summited first 8,000m (Dhaulagiri) in 2014; Everest in 2016; left the army in 2018; completed “Project Possible” (14 peaks) in Oct 2019; led first winter K2 summit in Jan 2021; set multiple speed records 2022–24; died in 2026. (See mermaid timeline above.)
Suggested Images/Diagrams:
- Nirmal “Nims” Purja on the summit of Mt. Lhotse (8,516 m) in May 2026, during his ascent without oxygen. (Photo by Nimsdai Purja)
- Purja (gesturing) with the all-Nepalese K2 winter expedition team upon return to Kathmandu, January 2021. (AP photo) Caption: “Nirmal Purja (center) arriving after the first winter ascent of K2.”
- Diagram: World map highlighting all 14 eight-thousanders and the Seven Summits, illustrating Purja’s “14 Peaks” and “Seven Summits” achievements (source: custom/infographic based on peak locations).
(Sources for images as noted in captions.)
Social Media Snippets:
- Snippet 1: Renowned Nepalese mountaineer Nirmal “Nims Dai” Purja (43) died in a Broad Peak avalanche on July 30, 2026. Known for climbing all 14 of the world’s 8,000m peaks in 189 days (Apr–Oct 2019) and leading the first winter ascent of K2, his loss has shocked the climbing community. #NimsPurja #Mountaineering #Legend
- Snippet 2: Fact: In 2019 Nirmal Purja (Nims Dai) set a world record by summiting all 14 eight-thousanders in just 6 months and 6 days. His feat was chronicled in the Netflix documentary “14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible.” Today we remember his incredible achievement. #ProjectPossible #14Peaks #Inspiration
- Snippet 3: Controversial Hero: Nims Dai (Nirmal Purja) has broken many climbing records, but in 2024 he faced public allegations of sexual harassment during expeditions. He denied the claims. Despite this controversy, he continues to lead Elite Exped’s high-altitude climbs, inspiring debate about ethics in adventure sports.
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